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Best Fixings for Reclaimed Roof Tiles 2026
Jan
The Best Fixings for Reclaimed Roof Tiles: Nails, Clips & Restraint
Getting the best fixings for reclaimed tiles is the single most cost-effective way to add decades of life to a heritage roof. This guide covers copper vs stainless nails, nail length and head types, clips and mechanical restraint, exposure considerations, and the supporting ancillaries—so you can order once, install confidently, and keep the ridge line tight when the weather turns.
Build the fixing system properly from the start
Order nails, clips, underlays, ventilation and perimeter ancillaries together so the roof goes on once, properly, and stays tight in service.
Why Fixings Matter So Much on Reclaimed Roofs
- Wind uplift resistance: Mechanical restraint prevents slip and chatter on exposed elevations.
- Longevity: Corrosion-resistant metals match the service life of quality clay tiles.
- Compatibility: Right heads, lengths and shank types reduce breakages in older, more brittle tiles.
- Aesthetics: Secure tiles keep coursing true; unsecured tiles telegraph misalignment quickly.
Fixings are a tiny fraction of the budget—but they protect every other decision you’ve made.
The Anatomy of a Good Tile Fixing
Before you choose, understand how the components work together:
- Underlay & battens: Provide background support and airflow paths.
- Primary fixing: A nail (copper or stainless) through the nib hole(s) or designated fixing point.
- Secondary restraint: A clip, tail clip or screw/plate at course edges and in high-exposure zones.
- Perimeter detailing: Additional mechanical restraint at verges, eaves, valleys and around openings.
Build the system, not just a nail choice.
Copper vs Stainless: Which Metal Is Best?
Copper Nails
- Why choose: Excellent corrosion resistance, easy to drive, traditional on clay tiles.
- Best for: Most inland sites and typical heritage refurbishments.
- Notes: Choose solid copper; avoid plated alternatives.
Stainless Steel Nails
- Why choose: Highest corrosion resistance, especially in coastal/industrial atmospheres.
- Best for: Exposed/coastal sites, aggressive environments, very high roofs.
- Grades: A2 for general; A4 for severe exposure and coastal spray zones.
Rule of thumb: If in doubt—especially near the coast—go stainless. Otherwise copper remains a superb, proven choice for reclaimed clay tiles.
Nail Length, Head & Shank: Getting the Geometry Right
The best fixings for reclaimed tiles share three traits: enough penetration into the batten, a head that bears properly on the tile, and a shank that resists withdrawal without cracking the clay.
- Length: Select a length that allows firm embedment into the batten (often in the 30–50 mm range for plain tiles; interlocking profiles vary). Aim for substantial penetration per trade/manufacturer guidance—err toward slightly longer rather than short.
- Head: Large-domed or clout-style heads spread load and reduce point stress on brittle reclaimed holes.
- Shank type:
- Smooth shank: Easiest to drive; adequate in sheltered zones with nib support.
- Ring/annular shank: Superior pull-out resistance—use for exposed slopes, perimeters and where nibs are compromised.
- Diameter: Don’t oversize the hole—match the original holes where possible to avoid splitting.
Tip: If old holes are worn, consider a clip or alternative fixing point rather than upsizing the nail and risking a crack.
Clips, Screws & Plates: Secondary Restraint That Pays Back
Clips add quiet strength to reclaimed roofs without visual clutter. They’re essential on perimeters and in high-exposure areas.
- Tile clips: Hook under the tail or lock profile; specified to the actual tile pattern.
- Side clips: Restrain lateral movement on interlocking tiles.
- Tail clips (plain tiles): Discreet restraint against slip where nibs are irregular.
- Stainless screws/plates (ridges/verges): For dry systems and mechanical ridge restraint.
Build your fixing set from our Roofing Supplies so nails, clips and plates arrive together with compatible underlays.
Choosing Fixings by Tile Profile
Plain Clay Tiles (Double-Lap)
- Nails: Copper or stainless clout nails, sized to gauge and batten depth.
- Clips: Tail clips on exposed slopes or where nibs vary; perimeter clipping advised.
- Perimeters: Increased mechanical restraint at eaves, verges and around openings.
Interlocking Clay/Concrete Tiles
- Nails: Stainless or copper nails through designated holes.
- Clips: Proprietary side/leading-edge clips to suit the exact profile.
- Notes: Trial a short run on the ground to confirm effective cover and clip engagement.
Specials & Fittings (Ridge, Hip, Valley)
- Dry systems: Stainless screws, clamps and plates per kit; torque evenly.
- Mortar systems: Mortar plus mechanical restraint—straps or screws—mortar alone isn’t a fixing.
Exposure, Height & Location: When to Upgrade Fixings
- Coastal & high ground: Prefer stainless nails and more frequent clipping.
- Tall buildings & corners: Increase restraint on windward slopes and edges.
- Complex geometry: Add clips around valleys, dormers and long, uninterrupted runs.
When in doubt, step up restraint—failure is costlier than a handful of extra clips.
Worked Examples (Indicative)
A) Plain Clay, Suburban Inland
- Nails: Copper clout, smooth shank for general courses; ring shank at perimeters.
- Clips: Tail clips on verges and every alternate course on the windward slope.
- Ridge: Traditional mortar plus mechanical strap restraint.
B) Interlocking Clay, Coastal Townhouse
- Nails: Stainless A4 ring-shank through designated holes.
- Clips: Proprietary side clips at every course per profile guidance.
- Ridge: Vented dry ridge with stainless screws/plates for continuous restraint.
Fixing Through Reclaimed Holes (Without Cracking Tiles)
- Clean the seat: Remove debris so the head bears on clay, not grit.
- Align carefully: Drive square to avoid ovalising old holes.
- Don’t overtighten: Pinch-cracks happen when the head is driven like a screw. Stop once seated.
- Alternate point: If a hole is ragged, use a secondary fixing point with a clip rather than upsizing the nail.
Ancillaries That Make Fixings Perform
- Breathable underlay & battens: Support tile backs and help manage moisture.
- Ventilation: Use eaves/ridge venting or discreet Pepper Pot Inserts to relieve condensation that can corrode fixings over time.
- Leadwork: Correctly detailed flashings and valleys reduce leak risks around perimeters. Buy rolled lead sheet and accessories via The Lead Lads® Shop.
Add these items to the same order from Roofing Supplies to keep scaffold time predictable.
On-Site QA: Five-Minute Checks That Save Call-Backs
- Trial a short run: Confirm nail bite and clip engagement on the ground.
- Penetration: Verify nails are biting solidly into battens—adjust length if needed.
- Perimeter restraint: Increase clipping on verges/eaves and around openings.
- Even torque: For dry ridge/hip kits, tighten screws evenly to avoid cracking reclaimed pieces.
- Weather watch: Don’t leave partly fixed perimeters ahead of a storm—secure before close of play.
Common Mistakes (and Easy Fixes)
- Using plated steel: Looks fine on day one, corrodes by year five. Choose copper or stainless.
- Under-length nails: Short bite = loose tiles. Step up a length where batten depth or tile thickness demands.
- No clips on edges: Perimeters are where failure starts—clip them.
- Over-driving heads: Stop once seated; don’t crush the clay.
- Ignoring ventilation: Damp roof zones accelerate corrosion; add discreet vents to protect the whole system.
When You Should Specify New Instead of Reclaimed (for Fixings’ Sake)
If the tile batch is extremely brittle, holes are inconsistent, or quantities are short, consider sympathetic products from New Roofing Materials. The right new profile with copper/stainless fixings can keep programme and warranty on track while preserving the intended aesthetic.
FAQs: Best Fixings for Reclaimed Tiles
Should I choose copper or stainless nails?
Copper is excellent for most inland sites and heritage work. Go stainless—preferably A4—in coastal or aggressive environments or where you want the maximum corrosion headroom.
Ring-shank or smooth shank?
Use ring-shank for pull-out resistance on exposed elevations and perimeters. Smooth can suffice on sheltered slopes with intact nibs. Many roofers mix both strategically.
Do I need clips as well as nails?
Yes on perimeters and exposed slopes. Clips provide secondary restraint and control chatter and slip—especially important on older tiles with variable nibs.
What length nail should I use?
Choose a length that gives firm embedment into the batten after passing the tile thickness. If you’re between sizes, go longer rather than risk a short bite.
How do I stop tiles cracking at the fixing?
Use a broad head, drive square, stop once seated, and add clips where holes are worn. Don’t oversize nails into fragile holes.
How We Help You Choose the Right Fixings First Time
- Profile matching: Tell us your tile type and exposure; we’ll recommend nail metal, length and shank type.
- Clip selection: We’ll specify compatible clips/plates for your profile and build a perimeter strategy.
- Complete basket build: Add underlay, battens, fixings, vents and leadwork from Roofing Supplies plus leads via The Lead Lads® Shop.
- Staged delivery: Timed drops aligned with scaffold phases to protect programme and site space.
Ready to Order the Best Fixings for Reclaimed Tiles?
Send us your tile profile, site exposure (coastal/inland), batten depth and a few photos. We’ll reply with a nail and clip specification, quantities, and a complete ancillaries list so you can order once and install with confidence.
